Golden jewelry refers to jewelry primarily made of gold. The chemical symbol for gold is Au, with a density of 17.4 and a Mohs hardness of 2.5. Gold jewelry is categorized into two types based on its gold content: pure gold and gold alloys known as "Karat" jewelry.
Pure gold jewelry contains over 99% gold, sometimes reaching as high as 99.99%, earning it names like "ninety-nine gold," "full gold," or "pure gold."
To overcome drawbacks such as high price, low hardness, limited color variety, susceptibility to wear, and lack of intricate patterns, other metallic elements are typically added to pure gold to increase jewelry hardness, alter its color, and reduce its melting point.
This results in various gold alloy jewelry pieces with differing purity levels, termed "Karat." K gold is an internationally accepted gold measurement standard, denoted as "Karat Gold," with precise gold content standards, leading to a range of K gold jewelry. As the saying goes, "No pain, no gain," the same applies to gold. While gold is inherently beautiful, it takes various sophisticated techniques to make the final product shine brilliantly.
Careful observers may notice that gold jewelry in the market differs in appearance, exhibiting various colors and textures. Different craftsmanship techniques showcase unique characteristics in gold jewelry. Here are ten common processing techniques for gold jewelry:
1. Ancient Craftsmanship
Ancient gold, a recent sensation in the jewelry industry, involves ancient casting techniques like filigree, engraving, embossing, hammering, inlaying, and gold refining. Ancient gold is crafted by hand, taking a longer period.
The jewelry surface exhibits a high-quality matte texture, exuding elegance without being ostentatious, often appearing thicker, resistant to dirt, and less prone to scratches.
2. Enamel Craftsmanship
Enamel involves mixing various minerals like silicon, lead, borax, feldspar, and quartz in specific proportions combined with metal oxides. After firing and grinding, this mixture forms excellent powder used for filling or drawing on the gold surface.
Enamel jewelry is challenging to make but results in vibrant colors that complement the luster of gold, making it highly eye-catching.
3. Sandblasting Craftsmanship
Sandblasting refers to the process of polishing gold jewelry and then using high pressure to spray quartz or river sand onto the exposed surface, creating a fine frosted texture. The finished product possesses a rich texture and a hazy, soft beauty.
4. Filigree Craftsmanship
Filigree involves intricate techniques like wire drawing, twisting, pinching, filling, stacking, welding, and setting to create detailed designs on gold. The finished products are intricate, and detailed, resembling works of art.
5. Sand Nailing Craftsmanship
Sand nailing utilizes a sand-nailing machine with diamond needles rotating and striking the gold surface to create irregular, shiny concave-convex surfaces, resulting in a sparkling effect reminiscent of a starry sky.
6. Polishing Craftsmanship
Polishing refers to using a polishing machine to achieve a smooth, glossy surface on gold jewelry. The finished surface has a mirror-like effect, showcasing the metallic luster of gold.
Traditionally, in ancient times, water was used to wet the bracelet, allowing it to pierce, and a slight polishing powder was applied to the surface, followed by gentle wiping with a delicate cloth in the same direction until a shine appeared.
Nowadays, modern polishing mostly involves using polishing machines to finish jewelry.
7. Carving Craftsmanship
Carving involves using diamond-edged blades with different patterns spinning at high speed on the surface of gold jewelry, creating various carved patterns. This technique adds distinct patterns, providing depth and dimension to the jewelry.
8. Drawing Craftsmanship
Drawing uses a drawing tool on the gold surface to create a matte surface with a directional, shiny effect. The finished product exhibits a shimmering effect resembling arranged threads, significantly enhancing the jewelry's texture and delicacy.
Drawing can be categorized into normal drawing and rainbow drawing, the latter producing jewelry that displays a myriad of colors like a rainbow under light, offering excellent visual effects.
9. Satin Craftsmanship
Using an agate blade to rub specific parts of the jewelry, satin craftsmanship smoothens the edges and corners, making the gold surface smooth and shiny. This technique enhances the jewelry's layers and three-dimensional feel.
10. Sand-Pushing Craftsmanship
Sand-pushing involves using sandpaper to rub and create a matte, satin finish on the gold surface, resulting in a silky and delicate frosted effect.
In crafting gold jewelry, the fusion of ancient techniques and modern artistry creates a tapestry of elegance and beauty. These diverse methods not only showcase the allure of gold but also highlight the craftsmanship that transforms it into exquisite, individualized pieces, each with its own unique story to tell.
